The Nankman’s 2026 Grand Depart
The Event
Endless Mountains Gravel is both a race and a bikepacking tour held out of Towanda, Pennsylvania. The premise behind the event is to showcase the beautiful landscape of the Endless Mountains Region of northern Pennsylvania, which has hundreds of miles of gravel and rural roads perfect for cycling throughout the four scenic counties of Bradford, Sullivan, Susquehanna, and Wyoming.
The various routes, for this ride specified as 115, 250, and 430 miles, can be ridden at any time of the year, but the Grand Depart event is held once a year in September. Partnered with the local tourism agencies, the idea is to bring together cyclists for one to many days of riding while enjoying the roads, scenery, and hospitality that the area has to offer. Some may come to race, trying to ride their event as fast as possible with minimal stopping, while others come to tour, riding a number of miles each day and stopping to camp or stay in a hotel/Airbnb overnight. No matter what style of pedaling is undertaken, food and drink can be resupplied at grocery and convenience stores, trail magic (local businesses or people who set up pop-up tents with food and coolers, and some allow camping), and restaurants and eateries along the way.
Regardless of the style of ride, the idea is that everyone is out there together to enjoy the good times, support each other through the bad times, and know they are all in it to push their limits and enjoy the endless gravel. Camaraderie and experiences that will be shared for a lifetime; the good, the bad, and the ugly memories that each rider can say they were in together. They enjoyed the smiles and laughter and also embraced the challenges and tough times together.
The Plan
Now, knowing the background information, here is a play-by-play of the Nankmans' ride, specifically my 250 miles. To take a saying from Mike Tyson, "everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face" is the theme of my ride.
Joël and I both planned on racing, but a casual style of racing. Fun is first, fast is second priority. We would be out there to push our limits while also taking time to experience what this event has to offer. Yes, to ride with speed and go hard, but also to slow down to enjoy the views, talk with locals, take some photos, and know that if we felt we needed to stop for an extra snack break, bathroom break, or to just chat with someone, it was all fine. We are both at the point in our lives and cycling aspirations that we want to enjoy the ride; we are not out there to exhaust ourselves completely, and we are not out there to set records or get FKTs (fastest known times). In addition, some nagging injuries have been bothering me (being run over by a car earlier in my cycling life, a broken foot last year, and the fact that nearing 50 is catching up with me), and doing something to make these problems worse is just no longer worth it. I was riding the 250 and Joël the 430. I had planned to go the entire ride with no sleep break, and Joël was planning on just a few hours each night. We each had a plan to push our limits and not give in to the urge to stop and rest.
The Grand Depart
The Grand Depart was Saturday at 7 a.m. from the Bradford County Tourism office in Towanda. A field at the county airport was available to riders for parking during the event, complete with water, electricity, and port-o-potties. People were camped in tents, camper vans (what the Nankmans travel in), or simply parked there. Since we had gotten our bikes ready and packed Friday night, had our bottles already filled, and had our clothing set up to quickly change into, Saturday morning was just get up at the 5:30 alarm, change, eat, and go. About 75 riders gathered for the rider meeting at 6:30 in the foggy, somewhat chilly (about 55 degrees) air, anticipating the start, with a fairly even mix of those who would be back the next day and those who might not return for a number of days. We all knew we were in this together. Rain, and a lot of it, was forecast to hit later that day and throughout the night, but that is all part of these events: things out of one's control that we all have to deal with and get through together. This was a topic of conversation, but spirits were still high about the ride to come, and everyone was stoked to get going.
The start went off well with many eager riders and smiling faces. Joël and I rode together for a few miles, and then on the first climb he charged ahead, and that was the last I saw of him until after the event. The chill of the fog soon dissipated, the sun came out, and the weather was beautiful: short sleeves and shorts. The miles ticked away effortlessly while I enjoyed all the rural country scenery and farms, the beautiful mountains, and the gorgeous blue sky. Nutrition and hydration were right where I wanted them to be, eating snacks from my own personal supply and sipping from my bottles of water and Gatorade. The first major towns for resupply and stopping for food, drink, or a hotel were Athens and Sayre at about mile 20. I rolled right through, knowing I was good for a few more hours. I was singing songs and taking in the scenery while very much enjoying the ride. Note: did anyone see the backyard garden with the gigantic pumpkins here?
Trail Magic and Farm Country
My first refuel was at around mile 40 at one of the trail magic stops put on by a local store, Delivered Fresh. I filled bottles, grabbed some donut holes, and was on my way again. Still feeling great, I pedaled along chatting with fellow riders and taking in the views. I was really enjoying all the farms with beautiful flowers, cute livestock, and the beauty of the forest. Hard climbs that were grueling on the legs were rewarded with fast descents. My Liv Devote Advanced was working flawlessly, and I felt great.
Many more miles and many more smiles, then came the next stop at a Dandy Mart in Troy, a local gas station convenience store chain. A few other riders were also there, and we chatted for a bit and gave each other motivation and inspiration. A quick bathroom stop coincided with an application of more anti-chafing cream, Chamois Butt'r, and this was followed by shopping for water, Gatorade, snacks, and a Coke. As I was in line, a local gentleman came over behind me and informed me there was a trail magic stop just down the road where I could get free goodies. Since I was already about to pay, he offered to put my items on his tab. What hospitality! Now resupplied, it was time to get back on the road again. I also stopped at the trail magic to grab a few snacks for later and give high-fives to the kids who were volunteering.
Now came some good climbs. Be strong, legs! I met up with Phoebe, and she and I spent many of the next miles riding together. What great conversation! I had no hesitation to get off and walk some of these climbs; I didn't want to burn out my legs. Along the way, at the top of the mountain, was a trail magic stop with the biggest basket of apples I have ever seen. So tasty and spectacular. The farm country was beautiful.
At mile 75 the next town came along, Canton. The big happening in this town was Watson's Diesel, a repair shop. They had a huge setup of snacks galore and numerous hydration options. I took time to talk with the wonderful ladies manning the aid stop; they had all sorts of questions about where I was from and about my ride. They had actually been spying on me with the Follow My Challenge tracking app and knew what to ask. Once again, I took some snacks for later. Side note about Watson's Diesel: they offer overnight accommodations to riders at no charge. Rumor has it that due to the rain, many people stopped there and it became quite the party. Too bad I was out riding instead of joining the festivities.
Riding Alone
From here on out, things started to get a bit more sparse. Not as many towns, not as many people, not as many trail magic stops. All of a sudden I was all alone. The 115-mile riders split off to head to their finish. Many of the 250 and 430 riders were behind me and would eventually be stopping for the night. I was still in good spirits mentally and physically and was cruising along. Looking at my time and speed, I even thought I could pull off finishing well beneath my goal time… but as I stated earlier, that was not my plan and not my intention, so I got that out of my head quickly. Thus, I continued to enjoy the beautiful forests and farmland. I sang Godsmack, Ozzy, Queen, and Lady Gaga to myself and pedaled along. However, I was watching, and worried about, the huge, dark, ominous clouds rolling in. I knew what was coming, and wow, did it look bad.
Just as I was beginning to feel a bit desolate, all of a sudden, like a beacon in the distance, appeared the quaint McCarty Mercantile, a picturesque country store and my next resupply stop. More water and Gatorade, along with a Coke and a huge chocolate muffin. The woman checking me out told me I was the first female she had seen today, and in fact not many guys had even passed through. That was a great motivational boost. As I left the store, one of the ladies shouted "Go girl power!" to me. That put a smile on my face. 100 miles done and still feeling great. But not for much longer. As I left the town of Hillsgrove, the rain started…
The Rain Begins
It wasn't too bad at first. Just a little mist and drizzle. I put on a vest and arm warmers and was good to go. My spirits were still OK. I was starting to feel the miles under me, but I still felt strong, content with my ride, and was having a good time. Nutrition and hydration were still where I wanted them to be.
About 10 miles after leaving the country store came the town of Eagles Mere. What a beautiful place! So many historic and exquisite buildings. I was in awe just looking around. Here was the next trail magic stop, a family who had food and drink for riders. I filled my bottles and ate glazed donuts, probably one too many. I usually stay away from excessive sweets because the sugar upsets my stomach; however, I was hungry, the donuts tasted good, and I felt obligated to eat extras since the family was offering. We all chatted for a few minutes, and the husband, who knew the local trails, told me there was some technical riding coming up. The mountain biker in me was happy about that! I cruised through Eagles Mere, stopping in a parking area to make some clothing adjustments just as the media crew came upon me, windows down and recording. Sorry again, guys, for divulging too much information and having to see me inappropriately adjust things. Back to pedaling and onto the lumpy and bumpy Eagles Mere Railroad Grade trail for a few miles. As much as the mountain biker in me was happy to be on this trail, I also took it very conservatively and walked more than I usually do. I was out here to finish and to not take extreme chances; no injuries and no bike issues, it's just not worth it.
By the time I left Eagles Mere it was dark, and the Lupine Piko light came on. This time in the ride is usually my favorite part of these endurance events: watching the sunset, seeing darkness come about as the forest changes, animals coming out, and serenity settling in as the sights and sounds of nature emerge. But instead, at this point all that was happening was the rain. What started as a light mist as I was leaving Eagles Mere was now turning into true rain. I was still trying to stay positive, singing more songs and concentrating on the beauty around me, but the rain was putting a literal and figurative damper on things. Just keep pedaling.
Up next was Worlds End. It snuck up on me, but I knew I was entering the park when I came across the Loyalsock Canyon Vista… too bad it was dark and raining so I couldn't see anything. Bummer. The descent into the park was fun, but the slimy dirt roads were starting to make things interesting. Since this was about mile 123, I knew I would need water before the next town with a gas station in 60 miles, so I stopped at the state park campground to fill up at the bathrooms and also take advantage of a warm spot to use the toilet. I was now wet and starting to get cold on the descents. It happened to be shower time in the park bathhouse, and wow, did I get some weird looks as I entered the bathroom/shower area. Dirty, haggard, and with this big bright light on my head, who knows what people were thinking. I took a few minutes to get warm and just enjoy being in civilization before heading back out. I do have to say, the campfires at the campsites looked inviting. This campground is a favorite place to stay for many people touring the event.
My Punch in the Face
Now came many miles of forest roads. The rain was becoming heavier; troublesome but not a hindrance. There were no other riders in sight. I was starting to have problems with the weather conditions; I was fully wet and soggy. I was able to stay warm on the climbs but was getting cold and clammy on the descents. Arm warmers off and vest unzipped to climb, then arm warmers on and vest zipped up to descend. Annoying but manageable. However, not manageable was my stomach. Remember all those donuts I had eaten during the day that I knew I should not have? Well, they were sloshing around in my stomach like a loaf of sugary, soggy, water-logged bread. I was feeling pretty gross and pedaled easy for a bit, but the donuts decided to come back up. Nothing like having to stop and puke exorcist-style along a country road numerous times. Once my stomach was empty I felt significantly better, but I had now lost the last few hours of nutrition and hydration. Hmm… would that come back to haunt me later?
The next civilization was the town of Laporte. Since I was hitting it at an off-hour, by my calculation sometime around 2 a.m., nothing was open. No way to get more water to rehydrate my empty stomach here. But thank goodness there was trail magic: a cooler and snack bars set out along the road. Resupplied, I felt better about my gut but not about the fact that it was now really raining. Downpouring, to be precise. I stopped to swap the arm warmers and wind vest for a full-on rain jacket with hood and waterproof winter gloves, and put on leg warmers. Even with the extra waterproof layers, I was still cold at times. In addition, the rain was making the gravel roads slick and slimy, hard to pedal and sketchy to control when descending. I trudged onward, but slowly, even walking at times due to the poor visibility and poor road conditions. Every now and then the rain would let up, but then a dense fog would move in, just as challenging for seeing the road ahead.
I passed through Jamison City and by Ricketts Glen State Park, and seeing these places with accommodations for overnight stays had me thinking that, due to the poor visibility, cold temperatures, and bad road conditions, maybe I should take a break for a bit. I did not plan on stopping; I was planning a "full pull" with no sleep, but my safety and stupidity should be reconsidered. Was this weather my "punch in the face," as Mike Tyson would say? I had my hood cinched so tightly around my helmet to shield my face from the pelting rain that I could barely see! This is when I hit my lowest of the low, the "what the F, this is stupid" thought. It's raining, it's cold, injuries are creeping up, you can't see, and you have vomit smeared on your clothing… maybe it's time to take a little break.
I now started to look for a spot to rest. In the town of Lopez I came across a wonderful park pavilion and cozy, dry pit toilets (like a port-o-potty, just more stable). My bike and I cozied up together in a stall, I wrapped myself in an emergency space blanket, and I decided to get warm and stay dry for a bit. This was also a good decision for me personally because I was starting to get muscle spasms in my lower back, from those old injuries I alluded to earlier, which seem to flare up when I get cold and depleted. Resting would give my back a chance to relax. As I sat on the toilet lid with my feet resting on my bike and my head propped against the wall, I could hear the downpour on the roof, but from what I recalled, the rain was supposed to stop soon. I dozed off, and somewhere around 60 to 90 minutes later I felt refreshed with my back relaxed. But alas, it was still raining! Sad face, but oh well, time to continue. I ditched the emergency space blanket but stayed dressed in all my rain gear and headed out to resume pedaling. It was still dark, and I was looking forward to the sunrise and my next refueling stop.
The Pump N Pantry in the town of Dushore was like a welcoming oasis in the dark, dreary night. Interesting fact about this town: the course took a little detour through town so riders could experience the one and only stoplight in Sullivan County. The Pump N Pantry had all I needed: hot coffee and snacks, along with more water and Gatorade to fill my bottles. The cheerful and helpful store clerk brightened my morning with chit-chat, telling me about other riders and giving me more motivation by once again telling me I was the first woman he had seen. I sat for a few minutes to sip my coffee and enjoy some Pringles and pretzels.
Despite all this negative talk about the rain, one positive thing about it is the creatures it brings out: the frogs, toads, and really cool black salamanders with gold spots, and the cute little forest mice that would scamper across the road in a zigzag pattern. Joël says he saw and ran over a porcupine the size of our 87-pound yellow lab… but he also says he thinks he was hallucinating at the time. Real or not, what do you think?
Sunrise and Survival Mode
Back on course, it was soon time for the sun to come up. Still too cloudy to see the actual sunrise, but at least it was light out. With the world becoming bright again and the rain slowing to just a drizzle, wildlife was out and about. So many deer, along with numerous turkeys. I was starting to feel invigorated again. At about this time I received a text message from Joël wishing me a good morning, saying that he had slept for a few hours and was now up and riding again. I took a quick look at the Follow My Challenge tracking app and noted Joël was only two or three miles ahead of me at mile 190. Maybe I could meet up with him? I pedaled hard and even yelled his name a few times. It was now getting warm, so I shed the outer garments and went back to just arm warmers and a vest. More pedaling through beautiful rural areas and farm country; I was feeling like I should at 200 miles in, not beat down but definitely feeling it. Thank goodness my stomach had settled and my back was feeling more relaxed; the earlier stop in Lopez did me good. Soon came another message from Joël saying he was at the Dandy Mart at mile 212 having breakfast. Once again, not more than two miles from where I was. I pedaled fast, passing a trail magic stop with just a wave, and skidded into the store parking lot, but Joël was already gone.
More snacks, more hydration, and I was ready to pedal. A very nice couple stopped me in the Dandy Mart parking lot with lots of questions about the event. The interest and involvement of those who live in the area is outstanding. Knowing I had just 40 miles to go, it was now time for survival mode: just get to the end no matter what. The sun was shining, and the clouds went away, revealing blue sky. I met up with some other 250 riders who had slept for the night and were feeling fresh; after some cordial chit-chat they passed onward, looking so spry and strong. After a few really good climbs, the course turned into rolling rural country roads showcasing the farms of the area. So many lush green pastures and beautiful gardens of flowers and veggies. It was a nice reprieve at the end to have the route become somewhat flatter. No matter how the ride went, when those last few miles are ahead there is always a feeling of relief and elation, because you know that no matter what, you made it.
The Finish
I rolled into Towanda again 30 hours and 38 minutes after the start as the first Grand Depart woman, and I was happy to be back. I was greeted by race director David and crew and handed my official Grand Depart finisher's medallion. 251 miles of endless gravel in the Endless Mountains. Not the ride I had planned; weather and injury came into play, but I rode the best I could with what was in front of me. And let's be realistic, I am just being too hard on myself; I really did put in a good ride. I suffered through the challenges and put in my best effort. But no matter what the ride held, the course was beautiful and the communities and the people in them were wonderful. So much awesome beauty. A top-notch event I would recommend to all.
How Did Joël Do?
And how about Joël, you may ask… he finished third among the 430 riders after many ups and downs, and it was truly a race out there. The top men, Ben, Nick, Joël, and Scott, were switching spots, and it really became a mind game and physical battle to the end. Sleep, or lack of it, became the key factor that helped some persevere and caused others to lose time and positions. Joël reports that noteworthy moments were the egg and bacon sandwich from Dennis, the double bourbon at Chet's Place, Dandy's breakfast pizza, and the sandwich from LeRaysville Market. For the true details and the best look at what went on behind the scenes, check out the Endless Mountains Gravel social media coverage; they captured it all perfectly via photo and video. Also, look for a video in the future put together by Joël. It will be on the "Nankman Cycling Adventures" YouTube channel.
Putting it all together to complete the weekend: as Joël and I were packing up, a wave from Phoebe and Ben as they were leaving, both of whom Joël and I rode with for quite some time out there, ended our adventure the way it should end, with camaraderie and good vibes about taking on the challenges of these events and knowing others share them with you.
Thank You
Thanks to all involved, such as race director David Landis, the Endless Mountains Heritage Region, and the media team of Dennis George Pry, Alden Roth, and Eli Drooger. The biggest thanks goes out to the community of the area; so many trail magic stations out there, so many people offering help to riders, not only with food and drink but with places to stay, mechanical assistance, vehicle pick-ups, and so much more. Truly an event where participants are not just a number; it is personal.
